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Track Tested: Armstrong Blu Trac Race, Hankook RS4, Vitour P1 Tempesta, Pirelli PZero PZ4, Michelin Pilot Super Sport, Goodyear Supercar 3R, Kumho V730

I’ve tested several tires on my Veloster N over the past two years and have pulled that data together for this comparison article. The tires were tested on different dates and in different conditions, but I use the same Pirelli P Zero PZ4 control tire to normalize the lap times, and I feel that that all the data can be compared pretty equally.

Note that my Veloster N is a dual-duty car with camber bolts netting -1.8 degrees of camber, but is still on OE suspension. A more track focused setup with coilovers would be able to exploit better suspension and alignment settings, and get more performance out of softer tires. But I haven’t gone down that road yet, and so this tire test should be thought of as applicable to a trackable street car, rather than a streetable track car.

I’ve put the tires in this article into three categories, and noted the best rolling lap time for each. At the end you’ll find a summary table listing predicted lap and something I’m calling compiled lap, as well.

Pirelli PZero PZ4 vs Michelin Pilot Super Sport

My control tire is the Pirelli PZero PZ4, which came as original equipment on my Veloster N. It’s an excellent rain tire, but has mush sidewalls and wears out a little too quickly on a dry track. As a result, I don’t use them much other than for benchmarking other tires.

I killed the first set of PZ4s in the OE 235/35R19 size, and probably wouldn’t have bought them again, but saw the 18” tires on ridiculous sale. I couldn’t help myself, but this time I got them in 235/40R18 and mounted them on 18×8.5 +45 wheels.

Another tire that came as original equipment on the Veloster N was the Michelin Pilot Super Sport. But this tire was on the non-Performance Pack version, which had 25 hp less, no eLSD, smaller brakes, and smaller tires. I got a set of PSS for free on Marketplace with about half their life remaining and figured I should compare stock vs stock. These came in a narrower 225/40R18 size, but I mounted these on 18×8.5 +45 wheels. Thus, I can do a fairly direct comparison between PZ4 and PSS, but only if I ignore the fact that the PSS is 10mm narrower.

In terms of lap times, it was a wash, as the PZ4 and PSS performed identically in lap times. The .03 seconds between them equatable to noise from any number of variables, such as air and track temperature, rubber on the track, driver consistency, etc. For a 300 TW tire, I’d take the PSS in the dry and the PZ4 in the wet, but neither is really a track tire.

  • Pilot Super Sport (45.207) – I like the way these feel at the limit, but the audible feedback is a little strange, being more of a protesting whine than a loud shriek.
  • Pirelli P Zero PZ4 (45.170 and 45.176) – The PZ4 gives an earlier warning and they are louder, so they give a better indication of the approaching limit. The sidewalls are too soft and so limit handling is a little compromised, but I’d still drive these all day. I tested these tires twice, a year apart, and they were .006 seconds apart. Given that the lap times, rolling lap, and predicted lap are all within .01%, I feel confident that my PZ4 benchmark laps can be used to equate the various tires to each other. So let’s take a look at those tests.

Armstrong Blu Trac Race vs Atlas Force UHP vs Linglong Crosswind

The next three tires I’ll examine are budget tires, and they are the slowest by a fair margin. But they are also the most fun! They slide early and make a lot of noise, and I can do four-wheel drifts in my FWD hatchback.

  • Blu Trac Race (46.247) – Armstrong left the e off of Blue, the k off of Track, and the grip off a 200TW tire. In lap times, it performed in between the two all-season tires I tested, and it’s a joke to classify it as a 200. Certainly the tread pattern looks the part, but these are all-season grip levels.
  • Atlas Force UHP (46.450) – I wanted to try these budget all-season tires because Jonathan Benson raved about their track handling in his video review. He says that the Atlas Force punches well above its weight and was fun to drive. It was definitely fun, but also the slowest tire here. At 520 treadwear, it ought to be! I got them for $55 as dealer takeoffs that were mounted once but never used (still with stickers).
  • Linglong Crosswind UHP (46.095) – This is another budget all-season, with a 400 TW rating. I put down one flyer lap that was the quickest in this segment, but in reality, I think it’s no better than the others. I got them for $65 on sale (regularly $76).

It’s worth noting that the Blu Trac Race were 235/40R18, and mounted on Konig 18×8.5 +45 wheels. The all-season tires were 235/35R19 and mounted on OE 19×8 +55 wheels, which weigh 10 lbs more. Each! If you put all the tires on equal wheels, the Blu Trac might be the slowest!

Which is not to say the Blu Trac are worthless. They are still the most fun, and should hold up to track abuse better than all-season tires, which have more and deeper sipes. Nevertheless, I’m still on a quest to find a bargain UHP all-season tire, and see no reason to go back to Armstrong when I can get something comparable in performance for half the price.

For those who are reluctant to try all-season tires on track, I say get a set of Atlas Force and just try them out. I often hear resistance to using all-season tires on track, with fears that the tires will blister or chunk. I’ve not had the problem (yet) and at $75 per tire, it’s a gamble I’m willing to take.

Also, let me give a quick shout out to the mobile tire service I use, On the Go Tire Pro. They do my tire changes at the track in between sessions, which is pretty much the only way I can get this many tests done in a day. Thanks Paul, you make this possible.

Hankook R-S4 vs Kumho V730

The ideal track tire for a car with OE suspension and limited camber is an endurance 200 TW. There are a lot of great tires in this segment, such as Continental ExtremeContact Force, Falken RT615K+, Hankook R-S4, Maxxis VR1, Yokohama AD09R, etc. For a camber challenged car, I also like a symmetrical tread pattern, because if you get too much wear on the outer shoulder, you can flip the tire once.

  • Hankook RS4 (44.568) – The RS4 was once considered average in the 200TW segment, but time has moved on, and this is now considered a pretty slow tire. Just the same, it beat out a couple other 200TW tires in this test, and proves to be a great match for a FWD car. This is my favorite tire, and my familiarity with it means I may have driven it slightly faster than other tires.
  • Kumho V730 (44.616) – In every other test I’ve seen, the V730 is considered a faster tire than the RS4, so why is it slower here? Well it’s actually not, I’m just not driving it as well. On predicted lap, it’s .271 seconds faster than the RS4, and I think its mostly a case of not enough time getting use to the tires. I ended up destroying the outside shoulder with 2/3 of the life remaining.

Goodyear Supercar 3R vs Vitour P1 Tempesta

Neither of these tires performed great on my Veloster, and this is to be expected because the car doesn’t have enough negative camber. But I tried them anyway, and these are my results.

  • Goodyear Supercar 3R (43.965) – The SC3R posted the fastest time by a fair margin, but I honestly didn’t like the the way they felt. The rears didn’t come up to temperature at the same time as the fronts, and so the first laps were sketchy. They didn’t give much audible feedback, and so the limit was harder to drive. But oh man do they grip. The steering is immediate, and it felt like I was driving someone else’s car. With coilovers and camber, I’m sure they are amazing.
  • Vitour P1 Tempesta (44.877) – I liked the way these tires felt. They have very stiff sidewalls and despite a soft rubber compound, they don’t require a lot of camber. From the seat of the pants I expected a PB lap, but it never materialized. The reason was because of Turn 2, which requires braking, turning, and accelerating all in short order. This overwhelmed the tires, creating a micro heat spike (I think). In the data, this was clearly visible as a V-shaped vMin in the speed trace, and a corresponding M-shaped LatG trace.

The reasons the P1 Tempesta underperformed could be down to a variety of factors.

  • Tire pressure – They like very low pressure, but I was afraid of cording the shoulders and ran them at 34 hot. This is still very low for a FWD hatchback, but lower might have been better.
  • Heat cycle – I did heat cycle these, but many people have reported they get faster and faster with more cycles. Perhaps the next day would have been faster.
  • Heavy FWD – The Veloster has about 2/3 of the weight on the nose, on a skinny 235 tire. Most of the people having great success with the P1 are using lighter cars, and most of them are RWD, where combined loading isn’t as much of an issue.
  • Track – Pineview Run is a strange track to begin with, being very short and slow. At a track like Watkins Glen, I might never have experienced the Turn 2 phenomenon.

I’ve given the tires to a buddy to test on his Subaru, and so perhaps next year I can unravel the mystery of why these tires underperformed on my car.

Summary data

The following data is sorted by Compiled lap time, which is an average of the rolling lap and the predicted best lap.

  • A rolling lap is the fastest lap time where the start/finish line is most beneficial to the lap, rather than a start/finish in a static location. The rolling lap is a legit fastest lap, and a more consistent data point across multiple laps.
  • I’ve also added the predicted lap time, which assembles my best sectors together. I use a five-sector map, which makes for a realistic the lap time if I hit my marks and drive without errors. But there are always errors, and this way I can see what the potential is.
TireRollingPredictedCompiled% Time
SC3R43.96543.69443.83098.34%
V73044.61644.35144.48499.81%
RS444.56844.56844.568100.00%
P144.87744.51444.696100.29%
PSS45.20744.92745.067101.12%
PZ4 6/4/2545.17045.09645.133101.27%
PZ4 6/25/2445.17645.12545.151101.31%
Crosswind46.09546.09546.095103.43%
Blu Trac46.24746.02646.137103.52%
Atlas Force46.45046.40146.426104.17%

Note the final column in the table, % Time. You can use this value to find your approximate lap time using different tires. For example, on RS4s I typically do Watkins Glen in about 2:16 (136 seconds) and so on SC3Rs that would be a 2:13.7 (136 * .9843 = 133.74). Likewise, if I use my shitty Atlas Force tires, I can expect a lap time of around 2:21.7 (136 * 1.0417 = 141.67).

As I noted previously, I didn’t like the feel of the SC3R, and I actually drove the V730 to a better lap time at NYST. If my Veloster had coilovers, I would surely be singing a different tune. The P1 Tempesta felt fantastic, but V730s are a performance bargain, and that’s probably what I’d use most of the time.

But as my car sits now, all-season tires are a better driving experience than Super 200s. Sliding around sideways with the tires howling is where the fun is at. And even if my off-brand all-season tires are a few seconds slower per lap, my budget Korean FWD hatchback is still getting a lot of point bys in the Advanced/Instructor group… from people driving expensive German sports cars, on expensive French rubber. Just sayin.

But at the end of the day, the Hankook R-S4 is the best dual-duty tire for a FWD car with OE suspension and not a lot of camber. The tires grip well enough, have great feedback, and when I wear out the shoulders I can flip them once and get more life out of them. The more I test, the more I come back to old faithful. Long Live the RS4.

2026 Tire Tests?

I enjoy tire testing as much as racing, and I’ll certainly do more of it in the future. Pineview Run’s short track is the ideal venue for this, as it’s mostly vacant during weekdays, and I can get in runs whenever I want. The 45-second lap time is also a bonus, as I can get in many more laps to normalize the data. So what’s up for 2026?

  • Super 200 – The fact that my Veloster doesn’t like tires that are any better than a 200 TW Enduro tire begs the question: is there any reason to test anything else in the Super 200 category? Probably not. My Veloster will destroy the outside shoulder on a A052, CRS RE71RS, RT660+, Hoosier TAP, etc., without getting much more performance out of them. But I got a set of used RE71RS tires and I’ll have to at least bench mark those vs the PZ4s. And if I get anything else for free in this category, I’ll test them out.
  • Enduro 200 – The Continental ExtemeContact Force is supposed to be a smidge faster than RS4s, but the price is typically a lot higher. There really isn’t anything else with a symmetrical tread pattern that’s worth experimenting on. But I’m thinking about going back to an old friend, the RT615K+, just to see how they compare.
  • Max Performance 300s – At the top of the list is an old favorite, the Continental ExtremeContact Sport. I loved these on my Miata, but I haven’t tried the Sport 02 yet.
  • Drift tires – Nobody believes me when I tell them the Veloster is a drift car, but it goes sideways like no FWD car should! There are a couple drift tires with symmetrical tread patterns that look like they’d suit my purposes. The. Kenda Vezda KR20A is about $135 each, while the Accelera 351 GD is about $5 cheaper. Both go on sale regularly, and I might pull the trigger on either. Another one that looks interesting is the Vitour Enzo, which comes in a 300TW and 340TW.
  • UHP All-Season – I’m also curious about high-end UHP tires like the Cooper Cobra and Pirelli PZero A/S Plus 3. Tyre Reviews and Tire Rack have tested these and put them within 1% of a PS4S, which is kind of shocking. I have a set of unmounted Conti DWS 06 tires I got on Marketplace for a song, and they will be my daily tires next year. Of course I’ll test those on track as well.

Black Friday Deals in Motorsports

Every year people wait for Black Friday sales so they can get cheap parts that make their cars faster. Buy and large (sic), they set a faster lap time, but the driver remains the same. The best strategy for lower lap times is driver education and seat time. With an eye on that, here are some of the best BF deals going.

Pineview Run Track Pass

The best deal in motorsports is Pineview Run’s track pass, and right now it’s 10% off. In years past, there have been a limited number of track passes available, and when they are sold out, they are sold out. I’m not sure if that’s the policy again this year, but you might want to jump on this early in case that happens.

Pineview is a great technical track, with a luxurious club house, and a supportive community. You’ll never have to sit through another 7:30am driver meeting! No more dumb jokes, explanations of how to do a point by, or reviewing what the flags mean. Ever. Again.

And that’s one of the best parts about being in a private track club; I show up whenever I want, and run however many sessions I want. But more than that, I really love the layout. The track has every type of corner, on and off camber, elevation, and compromises. Simply put, there is no other track that is more a measure of driver skill than Pineview Run.

There are three track pass options:

  • Track pass – The best deal is the most expensive, but for just $2160 (10% discount applied), you get unlimited track days in 2026 (Friday to Sunday). Come to the track 20 times and that’s $108 per track day!
  • Pay-to-play track pass – At $1460 (discount applied), this is a cheaper option, but you pay $50 per visit. If you come 10 times, this works out to $196 per track day, and that’s still a great deal. If you come 15 or more times, the unlimited track pass is cheaper.
  • Challenge Cup track pass – This pass includes six Challenge Cup races and three a-la carte events of your choosing. Challenge Cup races are all-day competitions, and so you’re getting a full track day with timing, scoring, and awards. $1620 (with discount) works out to $180 per event, which has to be the cheapest time trial racing series around.

Mass Tuning

Every year Mass Tuning releases their calendar around Thanksgiving time, with a huge discount for advanced purchases. For every track day you buy in advance, you get $100 off. Some tracks, like Canaan, Pineview, and NYST are less expensive to begin with, and so you can track them for as low as $150 for a day! And in the past there were Ladies Day and Miata Day events that were only $200, and ended up being half price.

There are a limited number of discounted track days available, so get on this before they are sold out (I’ll update this article as soon as the sale goes live). Note that I often coach with Mass Tuning when they are in my area (Watkins Glen, Pineview, and NYST), so if you sign up as a Novice, give me a holler and I’ll try and get in your passenger seat.

SCDA

There are several trackday organizations in the northeast to choose from, but I feel that SCDA sets the high water mark for the E in HPDE (education). SCDA is a little more expensive, but you get what you pay for.

Their Black Friday deals include decent discounts on their track packs. For example, their 7-day track pass is usually $3143 ($450 per event) and is discounted to $2595 ($370 per event). You can pick and choose which events to run, from Lime Rock to Watkins Glen to VIR and more.

Sim Racing

If you aren’t sim racing yet, see my brother’s article on a minimal sim rig. For less money than you think, you can get started with a very usable sim rig and Assetto Corsa. You can buy Assetto Corsa on Steam for $5, which is a one-time purchase, unlike iRacing which is double that price every month.

Doctor Korf has cataloged a lot of his sim racing articles at You Suck At Racing, so check those out. And stay up to date with this blog, as there’s always a lot of sim content.

Ross Bentley’s Speed Secrets

Seat time on its own is useful, but if you want to be a better driver, you need education and direction. Head to Ross Bentley’s Speed Secrets site and peruse his book, playbooks, and other content.

The off season is the ideal time to join his Sim Racing Academy. If you want something more intensive, then join the Sim Racing Boot Camp, which includes a month of the academy and 1:1 coaching.

Use the discount code BFCM25 to get 25% off.

JKF Aero

If you’re interested in learning about aerodynamics, Kyle Forster’s online classes on aerodynamics are a huge 30% off on Black Friday. You can read my review of his first course, and then head over to his site and save major bucks.

WingLogic MSHD

I wrote about the WingLogic MSHD in a previous article, and it’s still on sale for a ridiculous $350 for a 65” wing! I don’t know if there will be a Black Friday sale on top of this, but it’s a crazy good deal already. You’re not going to find an aluminum wing that makes more downforce, weighs less, or is less expensive.

This is how stoked I am on this wing: All of my DIY wing projects are now in the trash. I’m using the WingLogic MSHD from here on out.

Veloster N Rally Lights / Fog Lights

I’m less serious about performance or aero on my second Veloster N, and doing some mods just for fun, appearance, or convenience. One of the things I’ve done is to install rally lights.

I deliberated on 3.7” and 5” lights, bought both, and eventually returned the 5” lights. The larger lights were higher quality and gave the car a more legit rally look, but they were also a lot heavier. I was concerned about the extra weight bouncing around on the front of the car, more than a weight from a performance aspect.

I also went back and forth on white versus yellow lights, and in the end I decided to buy a pair of each.

These are cheap ($42), lightweight, and plenty bright. They come with a quick-release wiring harness and lighted power switch.

To mount the lights I removed the front fascia and installed U-bolts around the front bumper beam. I then used coupling bolts on the bottom of the U-bolts to hold up an aluminum U-channel, which would serve as the mounting point for the lights.

U-bolts fasten to the bumper beam. Aluminum U-channel (painted black) holds the lights and hides the wires underneath.

I mounted everything up, checked clearances, ran the wires, tested the lights, and let out a sigh of satisfaction. And then I disassembled everything. Now that I was sure everything worked and fit, I could put the front fascia back on again.

In the following picture you can see a T-handled hex key inserted into the mounting bar (black U-channel), which is how the lights are installed and removed. If I need to remove the fascia, I undo three Allen bolts, unclip the wiring harness, and pull the whole light bar away. It all comes off in a minute or two. The mounting system is otherwise invisible, and I’m pretty happy with how it came out.

The light bar fastens with Allen bolts, but you don’t see any of the hardware.

The final step was to run the wires into the cockpit. This required removing a few pieces of interior trim, zip tying wires, and drilling holes in the dash plastic to mount the switches.

Top view shows management of wires and the tight clearance between the front grille and light bar. The angle aluminum in the center is the license plate bracket.

All told, the project cost me a little over $100 and took about a day to install. I removed and installed the front fascia at least three times figuring out how to mount the light bar in front of the fascia, and moving the U-bolts around. Other time sinks included managing all of the wires so that the bar would disconnect easily, and running the wires into the cockpit.

A better look at the U-channel, and how the lights are mounted. The wires are tucked up and zip tied inside the channel.

I’ve tested the lights a few times now, and they are awesome. I have the white lights pointed out into the corners as apex lights, and they do a great job illuminating the sides of the road. This is important this time of year with all of the deer collisions. The yellow lights are pointed straight ahead and down, to be used as fog lights.

PittRace finale: not with a bang, but a whimper. And then a bang.

PittRace ranks as one of my favorite race tracks. It’s not just a great technical layout, but has multiple configurations, usable curbs, and great facilities. I was lucky enough to attend the final ever wheel to wheel race there, and the final ever event. Neither went to plan.

Out with a whimper

The final race was with Lucky Dog Racing, an endurance racing series that I really enjoy. Like AER or Lemons, they divide cars into brackets based on speed. But the cars must be 2006 or older, and there’s a speed cap (minimum lap time) to discourage and eliminate really fast cars.

The car I was set to drive is the same Miata I took to the wind tunnel. It’s one of the best built Miatas you’ll ever see, with a stoker crank, 85.5mm pistons, big cams, Skunk2 intake, Haltech ECU, and a Quaife sequential gearbox. Look around the car you’ll see an attention to detail that is second to none. Aim dash, Chill Out driver cooling system, you name it, it’s got it.

Sweet looking car with shark theme. Loving the gill-shaped fender vents behind the front wheels, even if they do zilch for performance (see Wind Tunnel Report 02).

It lasted about 10 laps.

The problem was a rookie mistake, which is normal for a rookie team. The owner and builder was chasing more power, and installed new cams before the race. This required claying up the pistons for valve-to-piston clearance, and then removing the head to measure that. In the process, Phil reused the head gasket, and that was probably not a good idea.

Head gaskets are typically single-use items, but since this Miata runs 2.5mm over the standard bore size, it’s much harder to find a 85.5mm head gasket. I guess there wasn’t an extra for testing valve clearance, and there certainly wasn’t an extra in the spares box. You win or you learn; we learned.

Burned through here.

That’s the way to goes sometimes, and it was at least fun to be at the track, talk to people, and watch the racing. It was a good opportunity to see how other teams use (or don’t use) aero, and that lead me to doing a podcast episode on Garage Heroes in Training on aero for endurance racing. Thems sour grapes, but grapes just the same.

Strike three for MSHD!

This race was also strike three for testing the MSHD wing. I had previously loaned a wing to Alyssa Merrill for testing at Watkins Glen, as she has a 9 Lives Racing wing. I also loaned her an original WingLogic to test. But she had assorted car troubles and wasn’t able to do any extensive testing on the wing. She was able to try the new MSHD vs the 9LR, and concluded that the new wing made the car more stable (more downforce), but there’s no data to go with that.

Then I gave the MSHD to Steve Leo to test at WGI versus the old WingLogic on his Subaru. The wing supports are the same distance apart, so it was easy to use the same wing. Unfortunately Steve had car trouble, and wasn’t able to test the wings back to back.

So this Lucky Dog race was also supposed to be yet another wing test, and this time I brought my MSHD set up as a dual wing, to test versus the 9LR dual wing (which is what is on the Miata now). But obviously none of that happened.

All said, I didn’t get to run any of the back to back tests I had envisioned at the end of 2025, and so it looks like maybe I’ll hit the wind tunnel first and then do the track tests in early 2026. One thing is for sure, me planning to track test aero ends up breaking cars.

Out with a bang

So if the Lucky Dog finale was less than eventful, the Hooked on Driving finale was eventful in the wrong way.

I signed up to instruct, but HoD didn’t have a novice group. Instead, I would have a low-intermediate solo driver, who I’d be instructing and evaluating. My student knew the track, in fact it was his home track, and during the pre-drive interview, we commiserated on the loss of this wonderful track, and discussed where he’d go next; Mid Ohio, or Nelson Ledges perhaps.

His car was a Shelby GT350 with 522 hp at the wheels. “At the wheels,” I echoed back, and he nodded. This is about what a stock GT350 has at the crank, and so it had been breathed on a bit. The car was on Michelin Cup 2 tires, which have a reputation for heat resistance, but they do take a few laps to come in.

So I asked about traction control and stability control in the drive mode he selected, and he said no to the former and yes to the latter. I should have stopped him right there and made him put on the traction control.

We started the session with two laps under full course yellow on a cold (40F) and wet track. This is not enough time Cup 2s to get up to temperature. I think you see where this is going.

We got stuck behind someone who clearly didn’t belong in the Solo group for being slow giving point bys on the wrong side, and then we went into T13 and my student got on the gas just a little too much. Like a tiny, tiny too much.

The rear wheels lost grip, we went into a slide, and then hit the grass at about 25 mph. If it was dry, we’d have come to a stop and laughed about it. But the wet grass was like ice and we picked up speed going sideways, straight into the Armco.

What’s absolutely wild about the incident was I was completely calm the whole time. I saw the wall coming and knew for sure we were going to hit the wall on my side. The driver was freaking out at this point, “oh no, we’re going to crash!” But I was loose and totally calm.

If you follow the blog, you know I was hit from behind by a fire and rescue vehicle earlier this year. So when you’ve seen a 7000-lb vehicle run into you from behind at 60 mph, and watched it coming the whole time, a 25 mph crash is fucking nothing.

Except that it was a pretty sudden stop, very loud, with plastic shrapnel and airbag chemicals in the air. My back and neck are a little sore (again), and my arms have scrapes and bruises. Enh, I’ll certainly walk it off, but FFS! This was definitely not how I saw 2025 ending, or my final two events at PittRace going.

Still, I feel oddly fortunate for getting to experience something (anything) at PittRace, and walking away from another accident with a smile, and a story to tell.

WingLogic MSHD Dual Element

In my first article on the MSHD, I mentioned the author of the MSHD thesis, Sriram Saranathy Pakkam, also tested the wing as a dual element. The results looked fantastic, with a CL of over 4.0, That’s over 170% more downforce than when used as a single element. But what’s more remarkable, was that as wing angle increased, it never seemed to stall. Stalling is the point where downforce decreases with more angle, and drag goes way up.

You might wonder why stall is important for a wing that’s not used on an airplane; it’s not like the car is going to fall out of the sky! But because cars have cambered rooflines, the middle of the wing experiences a steeper angle than the outsides of the wing. Air coming down the center of the roofline might be anywhere from 5-10 degrees, while the air at the sides of the car is at zero degrees.

This means if you set up a typical 2D wing at zero degrees AoA, the middle of the wing might be at 5 degrees (for a hatchback) or 10 degrees (for a sedan). The maximum angle of attack is often around 10 degrees for most wings, and so the middle wing could be at maximum downforce, while the ends of the wing are underperforming at zero degrees.

This is a suboptimal condition, but some people do worse and set the angle so that the outsides of the wing are at 10 degrees. But now the middle of the wing is at 15-20 degrees and certainly stalling.

In the end, what most people do is hedge their bets and set the wing to 2 or 3 degrees AoA. At this setting, none of the wing is at peak downforce, but neither is it stalling badly.

This is why the best performing single wings have a 3D shape that follows the camber in the roofline. The ends of the wing twist downward (or the middle is pushed upwards if you prefer), and so the entire wing experiences the same angle of attack across the surface.

But if you looked at the MSHD data, it appears that it can be run at pretty extreme angles without stalling, even up to 20 degree or so. This means you can set the ideal angle of attack at the ends of the wing (which perform best because they are in free stream), and ignore the extra roofline-induced angle in the center of the wing. If we believe the data, maybe a 3D wing isn’t even necessary when using a MSHD airfoil? It’s something I’ll have to build and test in the future.

As good as the MSHD is as a single element with respect to stall, the dual element seems even more forgiving. The author never found a point at which the wing stalled, the downforce just sort of flattened out at extreme angles of attack.

At maximum angle, the bottom wing is at 25 degrees, which puts the upper wing at 61 degrees to horizontal!

It sounds too good to be true, and so I’ll have to run a full sweep in the wind tunnel and find out for myself. But that may take a few months before I can assemble everything and schedule the tunnel time. So in the meantime, I’m going to build a hack-job dual element and see how it performs on track.

Upper element

The specifications of the dual wing used in Pakkam’s paper are as follows:

  • Upper element was a scaled down MSHD airfoil. Other airfoils were tested as the flap, but none performed as well.
  • Upper element measured 35% of chord, so this is about 3.5” chord for a WingLogic 250mm.
  • Total chord measured 120% of the bottom wing. On the WingLogic MSHD, this should be about 12” overall from leading edge to trailing edge.
  • Pakkam used a fixed 36-degree angle between the upper and lower wings, and then adjusted the wing as a whole to test different angles of attack. This is different than I’m used to: usually the bottom wing remains fixed at close to zero degrees, and the flap is adjusted from 25-35 degrees or so.

I’ll eventually 3D print a MSHD with a 3.5” chord, but for the time being, I’m going to use the upper wing I built for the previous version WingLogic. This will at least give me something to track test this year.

The upper wing I’m using is a cheap aluminum extrusion you can buy for $35 on eBay, Amazon, etc. I bought two of them and joined them together with a M8 stud. I also put a bracket in the middle of the wing to keep the middle from sagging. I then had a buddy weld all the way around it. It’s stiff and light and has a 4.7” chord. You can read about the construction of that wing here.

The airfoil looks a bit like a Wortman FX72, a high-lift aviation wing (coincidentally chosen as one of the comparison wings in Pakkam’s thesis). But the FX72 is the exact opposite of the MSHD with respect to stall. If you set it over 12 degrees, the downforce falls off a cliff, and the wing drops out of the sky.

Because the airfoil isn’t the ideal MSHD shape, I chose to back off the angle of attack (relative to the bottom wing) to 30-degrees, instead of 36 degrees. At this angle, I don’t think the upper wing will stall, and it’s an easy angle to set, with a simple 1:2 rise over run.

I overlapped the top wing over the bottom by about 1”, and set the gap between the wings at just over 1/4”. I settled on these figures by measuring the overlap and gap distances used in Pakkam’s renderings, as they were not given specifically in the paper.

I made endplates out of recycled street signs, natch. On a single wing, I make the top of the endplate parallel to the chord of the wing, which makes it easy to set the angle of attack (put a digital level across the top of the endplate). For this dual wing, I made the bottom of the endplate parallel with the main wing’s chord, for the same reason. The rest of the endplate has sort of a trapezoid shape; there’s no data behind it, other than it looks good to my eye.

Upper wing is supported by the end plates and a center bracket.

Completely assembled with bottom mounts, endplates, and center bracket, the 65” wing weighs 18.4 lbs.

65” WingLogic MSHD dual element is only 1.8 lbs heavier than the original 65” WingLogic single element!

Testing… soon

I’ll bring the dual wing to the A2 wind tunnel for testing when I have a chance, but until then, all I can do is track testing. Luckily I’m racing the Lucky Dog event at PittRace on October 25-26, and will hot swap the wing in the pits. This would normally be a terrible strategy for an endurance race, but the team I’m driving with (Rongway Racing) doesn’t particularly care about where they finish, and are just in it for the fun. They support doing aero experiments during my stint, and so I shall.

The car is the same Miata I brought to the wind tunnel, and has a 9 Lives Racing dual element on it right now. Swapping the wings during my session should be a good A/B test for subjective feel, and of course I’ll be collecting data. I plan to test the wing as a single element as well, which should be doubly interesting.

MSHD Wing Logic Available Now!

TL;DR Go get a Wing Logic MSHD wing right now. The wing is over 2.5 lbs lighter than the previous version, makes more downforce, and is just $350 for a 65” wing!

In my article on Car Wing Comparisons, I review many of the airfoils used in motorsports. The wings I researched for that article were mostly from the Airfoil Tools website, and designed as airplane wings. Of those, the best performing wing was the low-Reynolds high-lift Selig S1223.

But cars don’t need to get airborne, and so motorsports wings can be designed differently than airplane wings. In Enrico Benzing’s book Wings, he examines the various factors that make car wings different than airplane wings. I’ll do Benzing a great disservice and sum up his entire book in a sentence: car wings can have more camber and thickness, and the location of the maximum thickness is important.

Benzing’s research was groundbreaking 13 years ago when it was published. Since then, car wings have continued to evolve from high-lift airplane wings, to motorsports-specific designs. I built a S1223 wing and tested it in the wind tunnel vs two wings in Benzing’s book, and the S1223 airplane wing did not perform as well as either of the car-specific wings. However, the best performing wing I tested isn’t in Benzing’s book.

The wing that won my wind tunnel comparison test was a new airfoil called the MSHD. The 144-page thesis paper by Sriram Saranathy Pakkam goes into great detail on the airfoil’s design, and how it compares with other popular wings.

At 10-12 degrees AoA, which is where you’d set most wings for maximum downforce, there isn’t a lot of difference between MSHD and S1223. But at low angles or very high angles, the MSHD is in a class by itself.

It seemed too good to be true, so I had to build one, try it on my car, and test it in the wind tunnel. It outperformed my homemade S1223, a Procar Innovations wing (Benzing 183-185), and a 9 Lives Racing wing (Benzing 123-125). These results are in my first wind tunnel report.

The shape of the MSHD looks a lot like a Selig S1223, but with more camber, and an absolutely wicked trailing edge. The trailing edge was difficult for me to build in foam and fiberglass, as it’s nearly impossible to get the edge thin enough and still retain some strength. So I’m pretty sure the performance of my DIY wing could have been improved if I made it in some other material.

MSHD compared to some other wings, from Pakkam’s paper.

Carbon fiber is the best material, but is banned in series like Champcar, and can be prohibitively expensive. A better way to build this wing for the average club racer would be to extrude it out of aluminum. This would allow a very thin and strong trailing edge that closely follows the ideal geometry. And if mass produced, it could drive the price down to where even cheap bastards like myself would buy one, rather than DIY an inaccurate copy.

Wing Logic

So now that you know the backstory of why the MSHD is the motorsports airfoil of choice, let’s move onto the part of the story of how this wing gets mass produced. It starts with Michael Jui, an entrepreneur who was already doing stuff in motorsports. If you’ve ever shopped for a new helmet and sorted on lowest price, you’ll see Conquer helmets at the top of the list. Conquer is one of Michael’s companies, and embodies his philosophy: high quality at a low price.

Michael contacted me and asked if I could test his extruded aluminum Wing Logic wing in the wind tunnel. That information is here on my site in the article Wing Logic vs 9 Lives Racing, and also more in depth in my second wind tunnel report. In short, the Wing Logic wing did pretty well for being based on an airplane wing. But the 9 Lives Racing wing made the same downforce for less area, meaning it was more efficient and also weighed less. In the end I opined that the 9 Lives was their better choice if price was no object, but that Wing Logic was a fine wing for the budget conscious.

After that test, Michael and I got talking about a new car wing, and I suggested he build one using the MSHD shape. I advised that he should make 10” and 12” chord sizes. Alyssa Merrill, who does all my computer designing and 3D printing, sent Michael the CAD file we used to 3D-print Steve Leo’s foam wing. And with that, Michael’s engineer got started on the two wing designs.

Weighty decisions

Michael sent me the engineer drawings for both the 250mm and 300mm wings. The larger wing was going to be almost 150% heavier, and I’m not sure how many people would want over 20 lbs high up above their car. The end result is that Michael has only the 250mm available at this time, and I think that was a good call.

Initial design of the 250mm (9.85”) chord.

Weight is an issue for aluminum wings, and so I asked Michael if he could have his engineer lighten it up and make it thinner? Not possible. The wing was already at the minimum thickness for making an aluminum extrusion. So I suggested reducing the number of end-plate bosses from four to three, and moving one of them to the rear of the wing. I also suggested removing one of the spars. This resulted in a minor weight savings of .166 kg per meter, or 1.785 ounces per foot.

On a typical 72” wing this is only a savings of 11 ounces. But as the saying goes, if you concentrate on the ounces, the pounds take care of themselves. Also, the location of that weight is important, as wings are typically the furthest distance from the center of gravity.

My tweaks included removing two bosses and one spar. The end result is less weight and wider support for the end plates.

I also felt the endplates on his original wing were too heavy. At 10” x 5.5”, there’s very little flex to them, and so there’s no need for such a heavy endplate. Thickness was originally around 9 gauge, and is now about 13 gauge, which is a savings of 7.3 ounces.

The Wing Logic endplates are rather small compared to what you see on most wings, and you might wonder how they perform. In my 2nd wind tunnel report I tested the standard Wing Logic endplate versus larger endplates, and the results were about even. There was slightly more downforce and drag for the larger endplates, and slightly less from the smaller ones. But the overall efficiency of the car remained about the same with both, and so small endplates are just fine.

Another decision not to be taken lightly is whether or not to put a Gurney flap on the wing. 9 Lives Racing has a slot in the trailing edge of the wing for a Gurney flap, and I advised specifically against this. The problem is that this adds weight, but more significantly, it changes the rear geometry of the airfoil. If you compare a Be 123-125 airfoil with a 9 Lives, they are identical… except for the trailing edge, which is far too thick on the 9 Lives.

How much does this change the performance? I don’t know. But if the wing performed better with that thicker rear section, we’d see wings designed like that from the get-go, and we simply don’t.

The other way to do a Gurney flap is to mold it in. This is what Michael did on his original Wing Logic, adding a 1/4” Gurney flap as part of the extrusion. While this is economically efficient for the customer, I advised against doing that on the new wing.

First, because it’s just so easy to tape on a Gurney flap. The flap is on the pressure side of the wing, and so simply using duct tape to fasten it down makes for easy application of any size wicker. Some people may want to use double-sided 3M tape or rivets for peace of mind, and I can’t argue with that. I use 1/2” aluminum angle for a Gurney flap, and don’t mess with different heights. Changing wing angle has about the same effect as changing Gurney flap height, and so nobody really needs multiple sizes; a slot for a custom-sized Gurney flap is just more gimmicky and expensive shit I can do without.

The other reason not to mold in a Gurney flap is it can be trickier to set up it up as a dual element. Gurney flaps can absolutely be used in a multi-wing setup, but the wing overlap and gap distance become crucial and finicky variables. You can read about that elsewhere on this site, but rather than having a customer suffer those headaches, I suggested to leave the trailing edge sharp.

So you might be wondering, how does the MSHD behave as a dual element? The maximum coefficient of lift goes from 2.3-ish as a single element to almost 4 as a dual element. Yowza. Also, there’s a very soft or non-existent stall. So as good as this is as a single wing, it might be even more remarkable as a dual. (I have one set up for a dual element, but more on that in a future article.)

Dual element CL at 300k and 400k Reynolds. For a 250mm chord wing, this is about 38 and 50 mph, which is very slow; wings generally improve with higher speed, so this looks great.

Unboxing

It took a year from concept to reality which is probably a short development time, but it seemed like forever. The wing came really nicely packaged, with protective foam all around. My first thought upon unboxing it was “holy shit that’s a lot of camber.” My next thought was “good lord that’s a wicked trailing edge!” And then I thought, “man, this is pretty light.”

I haven’t been this excited since Xmas in my jammies.

The chord measures 250mm, or about 9-7/8”. Available lengths are 60”, 65”, 71”, 72”, and 74”. Most racing series limit wings to body width, but if you are unbound by rules, wider is better. If you race in a series that has a 701 square-inch limitation, you’ll want the 71” wing.

250mm chord. Or 9 7/8” ish.

End plates are included in the box, and as stated earlier, they are the same size and shape as the old endplates, just thinner. They aren’t pre-drilled, but there’s an included template for that. The M6 bolts are stainless button-head, and thread quite deeply into the end of the wings, which I appreciate. (For reference, 9 Lives uses four M5 bolts, PCI uses two M8.)

Bottom mounts are included, but the holes are oddly large. I typically use M6 hardware for wing mounts, but these are much larger. Which is fine I suppose, just different. But since I’m going to do some back-to-back testing, I made up my own mounts using a 9 Lives pattern.

Original undrilled Wing Logic mounts (top), new pre-drilled MSHD mounts, and DIY 9 Lives pattern mounts (bottom).

I’m sure someone wants to know what the Wing Logic MSHD looks like next to the industry standard 9 Lives wing. MSHD has more camber, and a much finer trailing edge.

9LR top, WL bottom.

I weighed the 65” Wing Logic MSHD with endplates and wing mounts and it came in at an even 14 lbs. The original 65” Wing Logic was 16.6 lbs, so this is a significant savings over the old wing. Incredibly, the 65” x 9.8” MSHD weighs even less than a 9 Lives Racing 64” x 9.2” wing, which came in at 14.6 lbs with the same mounts and endplates.

Now this is the older 9 Lives wing that I weighed, and what is now sold as the “Express” wing. 9 Lives Racing has a newer wing, which is the same shape but has been lighten somewhat. I don’t have one, and so I can’t compare the weight on that.

65” wing with endplates and wing mounts (before welding) is an even 14 lbs.

I have to say, it’s really satisfying to have the Wing Logic MSHD in my hands. My role in helping bring this to market was very minor, but I’m chuffed to have had any input in this, and to see it IRL

It’s bigger, lighter, and has more downforce than any other aluminum wing on the market. And it’s currently on sale for $350 in a 65” wing!

CFD

A lot of wings get developed, sold and evaluated based on CFD alone, which is a highly suspect practice. CFD is a tool to get you part of the way there, and you to need to follow up with a wind tunnel or track testing. That’s how the F1 teams do it.

Unverified CFD results in ridiculous claims of downforce and efficiency, and optimizations that show up in the computer world, but not in the real world. I’ll give you an example: I tested some CFD-designed endplates that were supposed to increase downforce and reduce drag over a standard rectangular endplate. But in the wind tunnel, the CFD designed ones were actually worse than a plain rectangle I cut out of a street sign. (This data is in my first wind tunnel report.) Moreover, I flipped the CFD endplates backwards to see what would happen; the data showed very small changes to drag and downforce, but the same overall performance. So whenever I see something that is developed and marketed completely from CFD, I distrust it.

However, I do trust the CFD from Kyle Forster, since his CFD models are much more accurate, and he puts the wing on a virtual car, rather than relying only on free stream simulations. I’m not going to delve into the computer stuff here, but if you’re wondering how the old vs new wings compare, Wing Logic published the full CFD comparison of the original Wing Logic versus the new MSHD.

Yes, this is a lot of downforce. No, I don’t know why 4 decimal places are required.

Note that the MSHD CFD data stops at 10 degrees AoA, and as you saw from the original thesis paper, the MSHD can be run at even higher angles. And so while these numbers look great on paper, I believe they can get even better.

Based on the CFD, and more importantly, the testing I’ve done on my own DIY MSHD, I fully expect the new Wing Logic to outperform every other wing I’ve tested, and relocate all my other wings to the recycling bin.

Track testing and wind tunnel

I’ll schedule wind tunnel time later this year, and will test the MSHD as a single and dual element. I have some different endplate ideas, and a few secrets I’m not sharing yet that could be game changers. Subscribe to the blog, you don’t want to miss that.

I’ll also be track testing the wing on a few occasions. I’m racing with Lucky Dog at PittRace and will be able to A/B test the MSHD vs 9 Lives wings on the Miata I took to the wind tunnel. So that will be great to get real world data that I can use to compare with the wind tunnel data. And I have some other track tests scheduled for Watkins Glen and Pineview, before going back to PittRace one more time (the final time, ever).

Veloster N Race Louvers

In a previous article I examined Veloster N Cooling and Hood Vents. I bought a fiberglass hood with an extractor vent, modified the vent to be larger, and then tested that on track and in a wind tunnel. The results were great, with up to a 10-degree drop in water and oil temperature, reduced aero drag, and increased downforce.

That car was totaled, and now my new car needs hood vents. But this time I decided to install Race Louvers in the original hood, rather than use a fiberglass hood. The reasons for that are two-fold: I always felt like the black hood was a bit too boy-racer (boi ricer?) for me; Race Louvers makes the best performing hood vents in the industry.

I know that because Race Louvers publishes their test data publicly, and they’ve tried just about everything. I’ve also tested my own vents and others in the same wind tunnel, and Race Louvers make more downforce every time.

So I contacted Al Watson from Race Louvers and begged him for a deal. “I’ll put stickers on my car,” I whined. “I’ll write an article on my site,” I pleaded. His reply was something to the effect of, “Enh, don’t worry about it, I saw that your car got wrecked, I’ll send you whatever you want.”

No fucking way. Thanks Al.

We discussed which Veloster louvers on his site would work best on my car, and I confess I didn’t realize there was more to it than I thought. We decided on a center vent alone, because using the center and sides, or the new fancy CF Extreme louvers might actually be too much area. Two days later I had the louvers in hands.

Installing Race Louvers

The first thing you need to do is measure the distance from the front of the hood to the louvre opening. This should be directly behind the radiator. In the case of the Veloster, this is just about 10” to the back of the fan shroud.

Measure from the front of the hood to the rear of the radiator.

Next I used blue painters tape and a sharpie to draw two lines 10” back from each side. Because the hood is contoured, I used a thin piece of wood as a straight edge.

Next I connected the two sides and drew a line between them. This would be the front of the vent.

Center line and front edge scribed on blue tape.

Next I used the full-sized template to draw cut lines on the hood.

I then masked off the area some more to protect the hood when I cut it. Now I was ready to make the first cut. I used a grinder with a cutoff wheel to make the initial rectangle, but a jig saw was necessary to make the final cuts in the outside corners.

A cutting wheel makes fast work of this job.

Next I test-fitted the louvers and found some unsightly gaps in the hood. If you look from the side, you can see the support webbing layers. On a race car I wouldn’t care, but on a dual duty track car, I felt this looked sloppy.

Notice the bare sheet metal below my fingers. Yuck.

I figured if I put some aluminum flashing here, with a 90-degree bend on it, this would cover the side gaps. I don’t think there’s any performance gained here, this was just an aesthetic thing.

Aluminum flashing test fit, before trimming.

I made four pieces.

With that done, I could finally rivet the louvers into place.

Louvers installed.

From the side, you can see the aluminum flashing covers up those side gaps nicely.

Hey down there!

I did the whole operation without removing the insulation under the hood.

Hey up there!

I haven’t tested the louvers yet, but I’m betting they work slightly better than my FRP vent did. The total area on the Race Louvers is 158 square inches, which is 17% larger than what I tested in the wind tunnel. In addition, the louvers should add some differential pressure that should aid in both front downforce and heat extraction.

From start to finish this is about a 2-hour job, and was a fine way to spend a Saturday morning. Next I’ll make a custom cover for it, to keep leaves and water out of the engine bay. But autumn is a month away yet, and there’s a Hayabusa swap calling my name.

I’m Available for Coaching at Pineview

Last weekend I instructed on track for the first time since my accident, and while my neck isn’t 100%, I can right-seat coach and drive a car on track again. I’m definitely concerned about things like sudden and unexpected stops (tire walls, Armco, and other barriers), but the general motion of a car on track is no longer a problem.

My student for this recent track event with Mass Tuning was a 16-year old girl who got her driver’s license two months ago. She was driving her dad’s clappped out Chevy Cruze, which I fully support (except the seats, which lack any support). But we found out quickly the budget Accelera Phi tires suck in the wet. Naturally, it rained the whole day!

Pineview Run is a busy and technical track, not the easiest place for your first track day. But she was a good student, listening to instruction, implementing changes, and without ego. So pretty soon she was safely navigating the track with pace and giving point bys. The next session we were quickly on pace with other cars, and right in the swim of things, cutting wakes through the wet track. By the last session we had a few dry spots, and she started throwing the car into turns and squealing the tires. With that she earned a few point bys, and even dropped her 18-year old brother (in a track-prepped BMW) in her rear-view mirror.

That was a good day with Mass Tuning, and a nice way to ease back into coaching again. This was my first event since coaching with Ross Bentley, Peter Krause, Sam Smith, Josh Herbert, and my brother Ian. We called it the Speed Secrets Academy, and it was a smashing success. I haven’t written about that event yet, but it went really well, far exceeding the high expectations the students or coaches imagined. Ian wraps up some of that in his blog about the Speed Secrets Academy, so I won’t repeat that here.

There have also been a few podcasts on that event:

People keep asking if we’ll do another Speed Secrets Academy, when, and where? Yes, and I’m not sure. We had always envisioned this as a traveling road show, and we’d like to hit tracks in the Northwest, Southwest, and Southeast. But a lot of this hinges on the availability of Ross and Peter, so I don’t have even tentative dates yet.

In the meantime, I’m available for private coaching at Pineview Run. I prefer to coach here as we can do drills, data, and run through many of the program elements that we did in the Speed Secrets Academy. Alternatively, I can also meet you at Watkins Glen, but you’d get less out of a coaching session there than at Pineview.

  • If you are a Pineview member or have an annual track pass, you can contact Pineview via the website. In the notes, mention that you want me as your coach.
  • If you aren’t a member, contact me and we can schedule it. Pricing will depend on if you need a guest pass, and what day, but figure around $400-800.

The best track layout for coaching sessions is the short track, as you can get in more laps in than on the long track. This is especially important for doing drills, and we will be doing mostly drills.

Pineview’s track schedule goes like this:

  • On Wednesday and Thursday, Pineview uses the short track, but it’s a shorter day that goes from 12:00 to 5:00. Still, that’s plenty of time and you’ll be exhausted.
  • On Fridays they use the short track starting at 10am, and switch to the long track in the afternoon.
  • On weekends, they sometimes use the Friday schedule, and sometimes use the long track all day. This layout is fast and flowy, but not quite as good for coaching sessions.

I’m working with Pineview to offer other coaching programs, and with Ross on the next Speed Secrets Academy. But until we get that figured out, hit me up for intensive drilling and 1:1 coaching.

Replacing the Veloster N: AAA Sucks. NY Law Sucks.

I was able to find another Veloster N with a 6-speed manual and a factory warranty! Unfortunately it has almost twice the miles and it’s a year older, but there were only two in the country to choose from. I would have taken any color, but it’s red, same as the last one. Insurance almost covered the cost of replacing it, but covered none of the performance or aero parts.

AAA sucks. I documented 14 pages of parts that I’d added, with receipts and links to articles here on this site, but many were DIY things I designed and developed and tested in the wind tunnel, and they didn’t give a hoot about any of it.

They also said the upgraded suspension, FRP hood, Konig wheels, RS4 tires, Pagid brake pads, camber bolts, alignment, and all the other stuff are “preference items” and don’t increase the value of the car. Also, anything over a year old is not insured. They were willing to consider the tow hitch (which is a custom job I had to weld up), but in the end they said the best they’ll give me is permission to drive to the junk yard 90 miles away and remove it. Thanks man, it’s the thought that counts.

AAA says I can take the tow hitch. Uh… might be a little bent?

If AAA sucks, maybe New York laws suck even more? There’s something called a No Fault law that provides $50k reimbursement for medical, my car, and loss of work. But I can’t go after the person who did this unless I’ve lost a limb or been permanently disfigured.

And because the fire and rescue driver was responding to an emergency, I’d have to prove he was grossly negligent and driving recklessly. Which is really the lawyer’s job, but they aren’t interested because of the No Fault law.

No fault. Indeed. Your job is to rescue people, not put them in the hospital!

I’m going to be a better person at the end of this, I swear. But right now, I just want to swear.

My wife has had enough of the swearing and moping around and set up a Go Fund Me. I feel sheepish putting this on here, as I feel like these things should be for people truly in need. So please feel no obligation to contribute. [Update: Go Fund Me is now closed.]

One of the things I’ve learned about this car is that it’s more fun on crappy tires. So rather than doing a lot of aero or modifying it for setting a fast lap time, I’m going in the opposite direction: less aero and slower lap times. No more fussing about weight, or power, or sticky tires. In fact, I’ll probably track it on all-season tires most of the time.

[Update #2] Here’s the new car, still waiting on the plates.

Going lighter on aero this time around and making it more for sliding around and having fun.

Instead of lowering springs I got a Mando ECS10 to make the suspension softer. I’m going to figure out how to lift it. And then maybe I’ll do a rallycross or something? Anyway, a new adventure beginning, and more time will be spent on Falconet for track use.

Thanks to everyone who contributed to the Go Fund Me, I will send you out wind tunnel reports and maybe I can run some OptimumLap simulations or do 1:1 aero consultations with you.

Looking for a New Veloster N

I was data coaching at Watkins Glen today. I went back into town to get a few things and on the way back to the track, I heard a siren behind me. I pulled to the side of the road and stopped, as one does to let them pass.

The emergency vehicle’s driver was distracted or didn’t see me, and plowed into the back of my car at full speed. My car is totaled.

Hit from behind and then pushed into a fence.

It was a fire and rescue truck, perhaps a Chevy Suburban. I saw it coming the whole time. In disbelief I watched the distance close. And then the impact. It was loud. Jarring. Painful. The airbag didn’t go off, and I got a face full of my spectacles on the steering wheel.

Some would say, “an improvement.”

This comes at such an inconvenient time; I’m coaching with Ross Bentley and Peter Krause next week, doing a new program we’ve developed. Luckily my brother Ian and co-coach Josh Herbert are helping with last minute stuff. But, man, super unhappy about this turn of events, and the timing!

The front got munched on a metal fence post.

I’ve put so much work into this car. It’s truly gutting to see this mess. And to know it’s not coming back.

That’s a huge impact. Hyundai makes a solid accordion car!

There’s a 90% chance I get another Veloster N and just hit the reset button with everything I’ve learned. I probably won’t be able to get another 10-year track warranty, though.

World’s smallest splitter has become one big splinter.

I used to track a ’93 Miata, and it occurs to me that if I was in that car, you might be reading my obituary. The height of the bumpers on the truck that hit me are considerably higher than standard bumper height, and I probably would have been steamrolled. Now that I’ve crash tested the Veloster, I’m more convinced this is the right car for me.

I feel like an airbag should have gone off.

I’ve been to the ER twice, and passed the CAT scans and X-rays tests. There’s no glass in my face, even though it feels like it. My back and neck are pretty sore, and my left shoulder is lower than my right. This is going to some time to come back from, both mentally and physically. But I’m also thankful; it could have been a lot worse.

Tell your loved ones you love them. Appreciate the time you have. We are lucky to be here.

Update 7/17: I think I found my replacement car in Florida. Same color, 6-speed manual, Hyundai certified (100k powertrain warranty). It’s a 2021 not a ’22, and it has almost double the miles, but I don’t want a DCT, and there just aren’t many to choose from.